Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Fruit in Urban Gardens

Every quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel-powered train arrives at a spray-painted station. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the near-constant traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past falling apart, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds form.

This is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to four dozen established plants sagging with round purplish grapes on a rambling garden plot situated between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just above the city town centre.

"I've noticed people hiding heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," says the grower. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He has pulled together a informal group of cultivators who make vintage from several hidden city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and allotments throughout Bristol. It is too clandestine to possess an official name yet, but the group's WhatsApp group is named Grape Expectations.

Urban Wine Gardens Around the Globe

To date, the grower's plot is the sole location listed in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of Paris's renowned artistic district area and over three thousand vines overlooking and within Turin. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the vanguard of a movement reviving urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has discovered them all over the globe, including cities in East Asia, Bangladesh and Central Asia.

"Grape gardens assist urban areas stay more eco-friendly and more diverse. They protect open space from development by establishing permanent, yielding farming plots inside cities," says the organization's leader.

Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a result of the soils the plants thrive in, the vagaries of the weather and the individuals who care for the fruit. "Each vintage embodies the beauty, community, environment and history of a city," adds the spokesperson.

Unknown Polish Grapes

Returning to the city, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the grapevines he cultivated from a cutting left in his garden by a Polish family. Should the precipitation comes, then the birds may take advantage to attack again. "Here we have the enigmatic Eastern European grape," he says, as he cleans bruised and rotten berries from the shimmering bunches. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they are certainly hardy. Unlike premium grapes – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and other famous French grapes – you don't have to treat them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was bred by the Soviets."

Group Efforts Throughout Bristol

The other members of the group are additionally taking advantage of bright periods between bursts of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with barrels of wine from France and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is collecting her dark berries from about 50 vines. "I love the smell of these vines. It is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a basket of fruit slung over her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you open the car windows on vacation."

The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, inadvertently inherited the vineyard when she returned to the UK from Kenya with her household in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to look after the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already endured three different owners," she says. "I really like the concept of natural stewardship – of passing this on to someone else so they continue producing from this land."

Terraced Vineyards and Natural Winemaking

Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has established more than 150 vines perched on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she notes, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see grapevine lines in a city street."

Today, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting bunches of deep violet Rondo grapes from rows of vines slung across the hillside with the assistance of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on streaming service's Great National Parks series and television network's gardening shows, was inspired to cultivate vines after observing her neighbor's grapevines. She's discovered that hobbyists can make intriguing, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of more than seven pounds a serving in the increasing quantity of establishments specialising in low-processing wines. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can truly make good, traditional vintage," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but in reality it's resurrecting an traditional method of producing vintage."

"During foot-stomping the fruit, all the wild yeasts are released from the surfaces and enter the juice," explains Scofield, partially submerged in a container of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how vintages were historically produced, but commercial producers add sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the wild yeast and then add a lab-grown culture."

Challenging Conditions and Creative Approaches

In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who inspired his neighbor to establish her vines, has assembled his friends to harvest white wine varieties from the 100 plants he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. The former teacher, a northern English physical education instructor who taught at Bristol University developed a passion for wine on regular visits to France. But it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the valley, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," says Reeve with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."

"I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this environment, which is rather ambitious"

The temperamental Bristol climate is not the only problem encountered by winegrowers. The gardener has been compelled to install a fence on

Brenda Middleton
Brenda Middleton

An avid mountain biker and outdoor writer with over a decade of experience exploring trails across Europe.

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